Japan 12: Hakata's Ramen Shop

One of the small restaurant in Fukuoka. There are many restaurants in the city centre. However, the streets seem a little quiet after office hours, for a large city. Perhaps, this area is only crowded during the working hours, and when nightfalls, another part of the city livens up. In other words, the visit to this restaurant is totally at random.

Upon entering the restaurant or rather a small eatery, there was only one other customer around. And on deciding on what to order, the menu had limited items, and with limited understanding of Japanese, it makes the choice for dinner even more limited. The kitchen and the whole restaurant was managed a single middle-aged lady and she was quite busy entertaining her, probably a regular customer. From the counter seat, the kitchen was in quite a unglamarous sight, with items in random places, dirt and dust in many places and around the seating area, probably not a sight expected from a place in Japan. So the dinner really lies in an unknown territory.

It took quite a while for dinner to be served. So while waiting, there was the television, the wondering of what the dinner might turned out to be, the staring at the middle-aged lady was doing to serve up the dinner.

塩ラーメンとバタ, ramen with seasoned soup and butter. The butter was perhaps a little too rich and overwhelming, but otherwise, this is a hearty and light bowl of noodles with good textured noodles and fresh ingredients. It was perhaps a little too little in quantity but the taste was wonderful. At 620円, it was a really good price.


The specially made miso broth was second main character for the dinner. Noodles and the ingredients matched each other well. Only one word can described it, 'heavenly'.

The shoyu flavored is the shops's specialty. One taste of this, will bring wonder how much effort did this middle-aged lady put into making this tremendous bowl of ramen. There was an indescribable depth in the broth, full of flavor, aroma, almost a blessing. At 720円, it was really worth it. It was cheaper than any proper ramen served in Singapore, but many times better. All the initial fear, worries, discrimination against this old, quiet, unkempt ramen shop were totally dismissed. An absolute true food's paradise dream coming to life.

Japan 10: Fugu at Shimonoseki

下関, Shimonoseki in Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Shimonoseki is famous for its great production of the famous but deadly fugu or puffer fish. There are numerous restaurants, small establishments, specialising in this unique creature in downtown Shimonoseki. For real quality restaurants, one meal involving the puffer fish can cost easily into 10 000円. For cheaper alternatives, this restaurant which located in a shopping mall and just a few minutes walk away from the train station is an option.


This is a set of fried puffer fish with breadcrumbs set. It tasted more of plain breadcrumbs than anything else.

Fried puffer fish set. It was a bit too oily and hardly any taste nor texture to it. The batter to it was too dry and made it hard to swallow let alone finish it. The frying technique was probably amateurish.

Puffer fish set, with raw puffer fish served in sashimi style.

Pure puffer fish flesh. It had a chewy texture, with just a hint of sweetness. It tasted like rubber with very little significant taste to it. The sauce that accompanies just gives it a salty effect to it, and that was basically what it was. There was not a numbing sensation on the tongue or any reason to risk one's life for the taste of it. But perhaps the choice of this economical restaurant very much explains why.


The set meal comes with decorative puffer fish dish.

In spite of the quality of the meal, it just cost less than 1000円 per person, way way below what one might expect for a quality puffer fish meal.
However, this restaurant's stuff probably provided one of the best service for their customer. As usual, there would be some language barriers in communicating, but the waitress would be quite patient and try her best to understand and be understood. In this case, it is likely that she knows no English at all. Probably because the location is Yamaguchi, a more rural area.

When the waitress comes over to the table to clear the table, or to fill up the tea, she would say　'失礼します', meaning excuse me for bothering. Upon leaving, she would say that polite phrase again, while facing us with a slight bow. This type of service and politeness is probably quite rare even in Japan, and so far the only restaurant experienced that provided this experience.

Japan 9: Iwakuni

岩国 or Iwakuni is a town situated in 山口県, Yamaguchi Prefecture, some 30 kilometres away from Hiroshima City. It is relatively a much less crowded place.

らいらい is a small eatery house just a few steps away from the train station. There was not any customer in the eatery and during the period there, only 2 other men patronised the eatery.

Beef with rice and some wonderful pumpkin for appetiser.

Pork cutlet set.

Ramen.

All these cost around 700円 per set. Overall, the food was considered to be of above average standards, but what make this place impressionable is the homely feel of this eatery, something which probably represents what the normal Japanese have for their dinner at home.

Some night scenes in Iwakuni.

Japan 7: Hiroshima 3: Okonomiyaki

だんだん, a restaurant located in the city of Hiroshima is a 5minutes walk from the J-hoppers hostel, which happens to be quite a popular hostel among budget tourists. This restaurant is specially recommended by a local who works at a hair salon. In the midst of limited English knowledge, and relating simplified Japanese, he had kindly show the direction with great patience and sincerity.

It was crowded in this small restaurant, with customers probably having their dinner after their work to enjoy some food and beer while engaging in loud conversations.

This local dish of Hiroshima origin, お好み焼き, okonomiyaki is an awkward mix of noodles, egg, seafood, homemade special sweet sauce and topped off with parsley and sesame. According to difference prices and taste, seafood or beef or pork can also be added in. While other parts of Japan (or world) have similar dish, this particular dish is unique to this region due to the specific sauce being used.

For the taste, it turn out to be surprising good for the messy looks it gets. It would be better if there was beer to accompany. Pricing at around 600円, it can be considered quite expensive. However, for the likes found in Takashimaya, Singapore, it can be concluded that the taste has been localised.

Japan 4 Tokyo 4: Whale @ Asakusa

鯨　or whale, a cuisine that can only be found in very few parts of the world.

So for travellers who would wish to taste some very local food in Japan, whale cuisine could be one of the answer. Located in the small streets in the Asakusa 浅草 area, this restaurant may not be easy to locate. In front of the entrance of into the Asakusa temple, where there is a police post, turn left along the main streets, for 2 blocks, turn right, continue for 2 more blocks, the restaurant will be on the left.

Whale, the largest mammal featured in small cans.

Endangering this precious mammal? Controversial environmental issue?

Settle in the calm and relaxing ambience of this restaurant. There were words ensuring customers that the whale served here is safe for consumption. The menu features only whale cuisine, so customers who might be searching for the familiar chicken or beef, will only have to leave this restaurant.

After an anxious wait, the moment of truth finally arrives; the tasting part. The whale sashimi set. Whale sashimi has a deep red colour almost like raw game meat. The texture is soft and yet chewy, with the taste of good quality beef. There is no raw musty stench afterall, instead it taste almost like high quality beef, extinguishing all worries of this restaurant. At 1050円 a set, it is entirely worth it.

This was perhaps the best fried meat dish ever. The meat was perfectly fried, with the meat soft and tender while retaining its great flavour but not too oily. The technique of the chef in this restaurant was actually quite admirable. At price 1050円, real quality food in Tokyo does not have to cost a lot at all.

The grilled whale tasted like grilled tender beef. Quite a good choice, but perhaps not as good as the fried set. Cost is 1200円。

Whale cuisine in Japan, a wonderful, unforgettable experience.

Japan 2: Tokyo 2: Soba @ Ueno

Tucked in the back alleys, away from the main streets, this restaurant, やぶそば, is indeed a hidden treasure of Ueno 上野。　It took quite a bit of effort, of reading the obscure map, from asking ordinary Japanese who pointed to a certain direction while mumbling something unknown, the search was almost called off. Luckily, this restaurant was finally found. From Ueno station, go across the road which is under a bridge, turn left and on the right, there will be a side walk. Go into the side walk and turn left till one reaches the side entrance of a shopping centre. Turn to the right for a couple more steps and the restaurant will be on the right.

Seated at the restaurant, a welcoming and elegant cup of tea was served promptly to customers once they arrived. No questions asked and no delay. Unlike many restaurants in Singapore, particularly Chinese, restaurants in Japan that serve tea or water to customers automatically does not have any hidden agenda, meaning these drinks served do not have a hidden additional cost; they are completely free. A very much respected social etiquette.


Most customers in this restaurants are middle aged salarymen or more elderly people. At first, the restaurant was quite empty, so there were doubts of the quality of this restaurant. But eventually, the restaurant gets filled up.

Comfortable setting and atmosphere can be experienced in this restaurant. The chef can be seen busy cooking through the translucent curtains.

This hearty warm bowl of noodles, filled with some unknown mushroom, seaweed and probably radish 大根 shoots. the broth light but wonderfully flavoured. It was a totally healthy dish, but the lack of any meat may not be entirely suitable for meat eaters. 878円。

The soba served in this restaurant was most likely kneaded by the chef of this restaurant, which means that customers can expect high standards from their dish. This set came with grated yam, seaweed and wasabi.　The yam gives the noodles a sticky texture. Please note that the wasabi served, was the real wasabi from the real wasabi root, not just simply the paste. The difference is that the real wasabi has a much lighter taste than the paste, it is also inconsistent in texture due to the presence of fibre and juice from the roots, and the taste is definitely more delicate and refined. At 750円, it is definitely much better than Shimbashi Soba in Singapore, both in terms of price and quality.

This kitsumen, most probably handmade by the chefs of this restaurant, is probably the best noodle dish experienced. The wonderful texture of these noodles was accompanied by grated daikon, daikon shoots, dashi flakes, and some unknown items, probably only to be found in this part of the world. At 878円, it is totally worth it.

For the cold noodles, the waitress will serve a small pot of warm liquid which was the water that was used to cook the noodle. It is used to pour together with the sauce for the noodles, and to be drank. The precious sauce from the chef's hard work cannot be left wasted. For foreigners, this practice may only be experienced in Japan. This tip is being shared here so as to save some embarrassment from curious stares or frowns from the salarymen while the waitress trying hard to explain in Japanese.

Grade: 8.5/10